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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Views from Marseille

Notre Dame de la Garde is the cathedral sitting above Marseille and protecting it with a gigantic statue of the Virgin Mary. Views of the city and impossibly blue sea and sky are striking.
Below are some of the traditional clay figurines made for the popular nativity scenes at Christmas: they reflect traditional provencale ways of life.


The contemporary kids sitting above on the steps of the Marseille opera contrast with the 18th century statue and town hall below, designed by Pierre Puget.


Aix-en-Provence: Faces, Figures, and Fountains





Provence: Lourmarin

Lourmarin is a small town in Provence northeast of Marseille and Aix. It has its own chateau (above and below) and is said to be one of the prettiest villages. It is in the area described in the book A Year in Provence.



Provence: Arles

In September, the Roman Amphitheater in Arles, seen above, is used for bull fighting.

Saint Trophime Cloister was built in the early Middle Ages, XII and XIII centuries. The monks did not go out so collected water from the roof in the cistern above.
The columns of the courtyard have unique carvings; restoration is being done to repair some of the damage

Not everyone goes to the bull fights. Young people gather in the streets for the excitement of the running of the young bulls.

Chamonix, Mont Blanc, and the Tour

Mont Blanc, seen above from Chamonix, is the highest mountain of Europe at 4870 meters or 16400 feet. It is part of a massif or block of rocks at the borders of three countries: France, Italy, and Switzerland.
Chamonix, in the French valley on the western side of Mt Blanc, at 1000 meters is the place where many people begin the Tour de Mont Blanc, a 170 km loop around the Mont Blanc massif. The Ultratrail de Mt Blanc in August is a running race where competitors run the whole distance in one day, see the start below.


Chamonix is the historical center of alpinism in the world. The fresco above commemorates some of the famous mountain guides and is being admired by a real person on the street of Chamonix.

The next chapters show the hiking Tour du Mont Blanc made by Alan and Cyane in September of 2010: the total distance was over 170 km, over 10,000 m of ascent and 10,000 m of descent. It is impressive to think of climbing and descending over 10 km.
Hikers often stay in mountain refuges, which offer beds and meals.
The traditional way to do the Tour du Mont Blanc is counter-clockwise, starting in Chamonix/Les Houches in France and hiking south down the west flank of Mt Blanc. Italy and Courmayeur is on the east side and the Swiss valley with Champex is on the northeast side of the loop.

Day 1: Les Houches - Auberge du Truc (Les Contamines°

The bridge above crosses the river draining the Glacier de Bionassay.
Glacial landscapes often have perched valleys and steep slopes.
The Col de Tricot at 2120 meters has steep slopes on either side.

French alpine landscapes are also very much shaped by cows who graze the "Alp" pastures during the summer. The Auberge du Truc below is really a summer dairy farm with a refuge added on. Most of the food served is cheese!

Stage 1 was 15 km long with 1500 meters of ascent and 700 meters of descent.

Les Houches is the start of the hike at 1000 meters.
Col de Voza at 1653 to
Col de Tricot at 2120 to
Auberge de Tricot at 1720

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Day 2: Auberge du Truc-Les Contamines-Refuge du Bonhomme

The Tour de Mont Blanc path from the town of Les Contamines runs along an old Roman road. Amazing to walk along stone pavers laid 2,000 years ago.
From Les Contamines, the path heads south toward Les Aiguilles de la Pennaz, seen below. The "needles," which is the literal translation of Aiguilles, are formed by the erosion of limestone rock.

There are two cols, or passes, at 2320 and 2480 meters (see names below).
One goes above treeline, above plantline, and ends at the Refuge du Bonhomme at 2440 meters.

The whole days hike was 18 km long, with 1300 m ascent and 600 m descent.

Auberge du Truc is a few kilometers north of Les Contamines at 1720 m.
Les Contamines is at 1170 m to
Notre Dame de la Gorge/1210 to
Col du Bon Homme/2320 to
Col de la Croix/2480 to
Refuge du Bonhomme/2440

Day 3, part a: Refuge du Bonhomme to Ref. des Mottets

It was very cold this morning starting out above 2400m.
We were with new hiking buddies Kirsten and Benedikte.

Cyane on the high point with a great view of Mt Blanc behind.
There was a long descent into the valley from the Tete Nord des Fours.

Stage 3 totally had a length of 18 km and an ascent of 1300 m and a descent of 600 meters.

Day 3, part b: Refuge des Mottets to Refugio Elisabetta

German mountain bikers on the trail of the Tour de Mt Blanc at the Ref des Mottets, above.
The trail climbs to the Col de la Seigne and crosses into Italy, below.


Hikers pass the Pyramides Calcaires, above, on the way to the Refugio Elisabetta, below.

Day 4: Refugio Elisabetta to Maison Vielle of Courmayeur

Above, looking south up the Italian Val Veni toward the Col de la Seigne.
The Glacier du Miage has partially blocked the valley with its moraine and outwash lakes.

Maison Vielle di Giacomo sits on the Col Chécrouit, above Courmayeur.
It has great views of Mt Blanc from the east, looking west -below.
Stage 4 was entirely in the Italian Val Veni, with a length of 15 km; an ascent of 1000m and a descent of 1000 m.